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Thread: My B....dy Heater

  1. #21
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    When the batteries are full, if the heater is switched on the fan runs and the ignition clicks (sparks) and ignites.

    but if the batteries have been used and the heater is switched on, the fan runs for a few seconds but the ignition doesn't click and the fan goes off.

    So the heater wants the batteries to be absolutely full and nothing else on !

  2. #22
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    I only say this as i have a propex heater bought off ebay.
    however it works just fine off my battery which i keep in my kitchen (dont ask) and always sparks up.
    I haven't charged that battery in months and doesnt show that much over 12.
    Unfortunately it doesn't get very hot for some reason (why didnt i buy new!) but it always lights up fine.
    It's the propex old post office one in red 1600 x or something.

    Update: moved the battery to the shed - where all the petrol/engine oil/white spirit/brake fluid is.
    is that safer?!

  3. #23
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    yep...mine is a Red 1600. X1

    Run fine when nothing else is in use !

    Will try Traveller 26's idea of a buck/boost regulator and see if that improves the situation.

    Still looking at the solar panel idea though, as although the last few years our 2 weeks away have been tours with possibly 80 miles a day covered and the batteries regularly charged from the pick-ups alternator, in the future we might be a bit more stationary and not drive around as much, so will need to give the batteries a boost.

  4. #24
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    I have a dc - dc converter for my electric bike ive not actually put it on yet.
    It's quite impressive, some of them have a little delay whilst they get up to full voltage although it's only a slight increase on yours, and presumably it will be on permanently whilst the propex heater is turned on at the switch.
    Can't remember which oen mine actually is on ebay.
    still think you have a fault wire or dry solder joint somewhere, or the electrode is too far away.

  5. #25
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    From the fuse to the Room stat and then on to the heater is probably 5m.

    As i say it fires up beautifully if no other electrical equipment is ON.

  6. #26
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    The Friendly Green Giant suppliers of solar panels on ebay say they will have the 100w panels back in in august.

    I think these are what Kernpjon has !

    Not sure to go for one of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2530187625...&sojTags=bu=bu

    or go for the dearer and supposedly better quality ones i listed earlier

  7. #27
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    Pete, I would not worry about supplier concentrate on 100watt Mono crystalline and the physical size to fit on the roof. My fridge runs every half hour for about 3-4 minutes. No charge but Solar since yesterday afternoon battery 12.5-12.6v day overcast. Loch Lomond little van is ratcheting up the miles.
    Jon

  8. #28
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    Hi DD,

    I came across this the other day and thought of you! It is a blog and the guy has stripped down a propex and fixed it. He has testing suggestions and things to adjust, etc. His wasn't igniting either.

    Not sure if it helps but here it is. Just click on the paragraph that interests you,

    http://vandogtraveller.com/?s=propex

    Panda
    These broken wings are gonna leave me here to stand my ground........

  9. #29
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    thanks for that but mine sparks fine when the power is undisturbed by other equipment

  10. #30
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    Taken the plunge and bought a 100w solar panel and control box and will fit it when I get a chance.

    The Connections on the control box are : Panel....Battery and Load

    A question I have is: can a battery charger sill be used if the power runs low.....?
    I presume the control box stops power going the wrong way but would it be wired in with the load of connected to the battery connection.

  11. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    Taken the plunge and bought a 100w solar panel and control box and will fit it when I get a chance.

    The Connections on the control box are : Panel....Battery and Load

    A question I have is: can a battery charger sill be used if the power runs low.....?
    I presume the control box stops power going the wrong way but would it be wired in with the load of connected to the battery connection.
    Hi DD,

    I assume the same as you. After all, the split charger is constantly recharging the battery and I guess that that doesn't damage the panels or anything. I am no expert, just making an assumption.

    Panda
    These broken wings are gonna leave me here to stand my ground........

  12. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    Taken the plunge and bought a 100w solar panel and control box and will fit it when I get a chance.

    The Connections on the control box are : Panel....Battery and Load

    A question I have is: can a battery charger sill be used if the power runs low.....?
    I presume the control box stops power going the wrong way but would it be wired in with the load of connected to the battery connection.

    My controller is wired to the battery, and the panel, nothing on load, as on mine that simply powers the load straight off the panel, not the battery.
    My charger is connected directly to the battery terminals, the controller stops it feeding back into the panel.

    Any load is connected directly to the battery.

    So effectively, all I've done is connect the panel to the controller to the battery terminals, all other van wiring is the same.

  13. #33
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    Hi DD,

    I've been reading up online about these Propex and they definitely seem prone to start-up failure due to low voltage. Have you measured the voltage at the unit when the batteries are under load and it fails to fire up? Is there one specific other 12v appliance that interferes with the Propex more than another?

    Just another thought that has crossed my mind is that are you using the correct thickness (gauge?) of wire as suggested by Propex, and are getting voltage drop due to the length of the cabling?

    It does seem to point to a Propex, rather than a battery problem. I wonder whether there is a resistance (I think?) or something causing a voltage drop, in the Propex circuit somewhere, either with the unit itself or with the associated wiring? Are all your joints soldered and tight and that sort of thing? I am sure you have checked all of this, but I thought I'd keep offering suggestions.

    I feel your frustration!

    Panda
    Last edited by Pandabloke; 15-07-2017 at 08:13 PM.
    These broken wings are gonna leave me here to stand my ground........

  14. #34
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    Default solar panel

    I guess after 4 years now. I have been using the Solar panel the longest.

    My Leisure battery / solar panel is wired like this

    solar panel --------- (terminals +- Solar Panel)Controller (terminal +- Battery) ---------------+- Battery
    Vehicle Battery (+-)--------------- Relay (SmartCom) -------------- (+-) Leisure Battery

    We don't need the LOAD terminals see the pasted notes from Sunstore
    Jon

    Solar Charge Controller Load Output Explained

    At Sunstore we are often asked about how the load output on our charge controllers should be used.

    The load output on the charge controllers is ideal for putting small lighting circuits on in sheds, garages and outbuildings. We have a similar system set up in one of our workshops powering 3 LED bulbs, this gives us plenty of light for product testing etc. It is possible to put small pumps or motors on to the load output, but you should make sure that the maximum load does not exceed the rating of the charge controller.

    If you are installing your solar system in a Motorhome or Caravan it is unlikely that you will need to use the load output on the charge controller as your load will be running from the existing system within your Motorhome or Caravan.

    If you are unsure if you should be using the load output please feel free to call us on 01903 213141 and we will be happy to give you some advice.

  15. #35
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    The vehicle battery is completely separate and is only connected via a smart relay via a 12S trailer plug when the pod is on the pick-up at weekends, so I dont need to worry about this

    The leisure batteries are connected to a fuse board in the pod and these fuses feed all of the electrical equipment, so it will be simple enough to connect a wire of the correct amperage from the solar panel control unit to the fuse board (battery) feed wire.

    As suggested I wont need to use the load side of the controller.

  16. #36
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    Looking at the various buck boosters available I will probably opt for a sealed version to prevent moisture problems.


    It states they have a low static power draw of around 12ma.
    I know that minuscule, but would it best to place it after the thermostat so that its only fired up when the thermostat is calling for power ?

  17. #37
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  18. #38
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    I am not certain this will do what you want. I read the description and it says


    Input voltage: DC 8-22V
    Output voltage:1-15V (adjustable,please ensure that the input voltage is higher than the output 3V)

    Note the output has to be 3 volts lower than the input what in effect is it gives a regulated power supply for electronic equipment.

    Jon
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

  19. #39
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    I might sound daft but........... the input voltage will be 12v direct from my batteries so wont the voltage needed for the heater be 12v as well ?

    I thought this was to be used to give a constant output of at least 1.6 amps that the heater needs tp fire it up ?

  20. #40
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    posted my reply before i'd finished....!

    So want to add was that if the 3v drop is necessary then it wont do what I need !

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