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Thread: My B....dy Heater

  1. #41
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    possibly donks put it after - but i know some of the reviews for some of them said that they have a delay in getting to full voltage, although your voltage boost is minimal. I know mine is pretty instantaneous.
    Last edited by llywelyn1984; 23-07-2017 at 11:42 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    posted my reply before i'd finished....!

    So want to add was that if the 3v drop is necessary then it wont do what I need !
    That is what I thought and why I drew your attention to it.
    It goes like this you never get something for nothing.
    If a device steps down the voltage then the Amps in will be less than the Amps out.
    If voltage is stepped up Amps in will be more than the Amps out

    Although there will always be a slight loss basically the Wattage will remain constant.

    I think taking the Propex voltage sensitivity on board the idea of a dedicated battery may be the only solution although it might be a smaller battery in Amp Hours - Your sleep Apnia machine and Propex would not be in conflict if running off what were separate batteries. - Have to boost the springs even more

    Jon
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  3. #43
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    I have Just ordered the Buck Booster KernowJon recommended so I will be fitting that as soon as it arrives.

    I have also fitted the support brackets to the solar panel and will be mounting that on the roof of the pod soon too. The question I have is that I know the control gear stops current traveling back to the pane from the batteries, but should I fit a fuse on the feed From the control box to the batteries ?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    I have Just ordered the Buck Booster KernowJon recommended so I will be fitting that as soon as it arrives.

    I have also fitted the support brackets to the solar panel and will be mounting that on the roof of the pod soon too. The question I have is that I know the control gear stops current traveling back to the pane from the batteries, but should I fit a fuse on the feed From the control box to the batteries ?
    It was Traveller who recomended the Buck Booster not me!

    I have a 10 amp fuse in positive line between the Solar Panel and the control box and a 10 amp fuse in the positive line between the control box and the battery - some people might say the fuse between panel and control box is over kill but my thought is protect everything.

    10 amp on the calculation. SP = 100w

    100 watt at 12v (100/12) = 8.333 Amps

    In truth unless you are getting sunlight of the intensity found in Portugul you will not get the 8.33Amps

    That set up has worked for me.

    Jon
    Last edited by kernowjon; 26-07-2017 at 10:20 PM.
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

  5. #45
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    The Buck Booster arrived today...What a great service & superfast delivery.

    I can see the + & - in and the + & - Out but there are no instructions for setting it, so I have messaged the seller.

    I remember that there are permanent connections on the heater are Red + and Black - and the orange is the + ignition wire.

    So I presume that I connect the booster to the black - and the orange ignition + wire ?

    I will connect the booster between where the feed wires connect to the heater wires (about 12" from it)

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    Was I right with my colour coding above ?

    and should it go on the ignition trigger wire ?

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    Pete
    I do not have a Propex manual but if orange is the ignition wire then that is how I would wire it.
    The problem seems to be getting a good supply to the ignition side.
    Jon
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

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    Thanks Jon, but If its wired in after the thermostat it will only be powered up when the thermostat calls for heat, so will it retain the power setting in its memory or would it re-set to its factory setting.?

    If so it would need to be wired in before the thermostat to have a constant power supply to do that. ?

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    Hi Pete
    Yes I would wire before the thermostat - the thermostat is no more than a switch when the temp drops below a mcertain level it is ON when it rises above a certain temp it is OFF.

    Jon
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

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    The only problem i can see is that the booster will be powered up for most of the time when the heater is unused (most of the year) .

    I know it doesn't draw much power but its "on"

    If it didn't lose its settings after the thermostat would be better as it would only get powered up when its needed.

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    Hmmmmm Problems problem - I am unsure - I thought the BOOSTER (REGULATED POWER SUPPLY) should be as close as possible to the battery in to avoid transmission losses.
    If I am wrong then after the thermostat would be fine.
    If I am correct then a "Master Switch" between the battery and the unit would serve the same function and to be honest relying on a thermostat as the main ON/OFF switch is not recomended. My compressor fridge is Thermostat controlled, but there is a Master Switch in the supply line to the fridge.

    Jon
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    As you can all see in General camping discussion section, we Just got back from a 2000 mile, 14 Day round tour of the North East & North West of England.

    As previously posted i have a LED gizmo that tells me the charge in my batteries
    Green- 13.3v (only seemes to be on this when on EHU and Charging
    Amber- 11.5v
    Amber- Flashing 11.2v
    Red- below 11.2v
    Sorry, but I have not really paid much attention to this post.

    However, I have just read this bit about battery charging.
    A battery will NEVER reach full charge on 13.3 volts! As that is only the voltage of a fully charged battery. To charge a 12 volt battery to its full charge voltage of £13.2volts something around 14 volts minimum is required. To adequately charge your vehicle battery the system will often charge at nearly 15volts.

    If you think of the Voltage output of the battery as pressure then it becomes obvious that a greater pressure (voltage) is needed to force power INTO a battery.
    13.3 Volts will take forever to fully charge a 12volt battery up to 13.2volts.
    Jim.
    Keeping people waiting is stealing a part of their lives.

  13. #53
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    There is a switch built into the thermostat that turns the heater (and thermostat) off.

    My concern is that if the booster is between the power supply and on / off switch the booster will be powered up 24/7

    If it keeps the memory set into it it may be OK after the on / off Switch !

    There is an off of button on the booster so it may have a memory built ion ? I will test wire it and see

  14. #54
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    I powered up the buck booster today and it shows an input voltage of 12.9.

    The output indicator read 15 so i presume this means that it has boosted the output voltage by 2.1 v

    Wont this blow my 12v heater ?

  15. #55
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    I Fitted the 100w Solar Panel Today.

    I have connected up the Control Box and Protected the input from the Panel into the controller and the output from the Controller to the Battery with a 10amp fuse on each.

    My little Gizmo that indicates the charge in the battery is showing green (like it does on EHU) and the buck booster is showing an input of 13.4 (it was 12.9 before i connected the solar panel) so all seems well

    Just got to connect the booster to the heater now to see if that sorts that out

  16. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    I Fitted the 100w Solar Panel Today.

    I have connected up the Control Box and Protected the input from the Panel into the controller and the output from the Controller to the Battery with a 10amp fuse on each.

    My little Gizmo that indicates the charge in the battery is showing green (like it does on EHU) and the buck booster is showing an input of 13.4 (it was 12.9 before i connected the solar panel) so all seems well

    Just got to connect the booster to the heater now to see if that sorts that out
    FINGERS Xed
    Jon
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

  17. #57
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    Wired up the Buck Booster today to the Heater.
    Connected it to the - (Neg) and the + Ignition Wire and left the + Positive wire to the heater connected as it was.

    I fitted it After the Thermostat and close to the heater so it only get powered up when the Control (main) heater switch is turned ON and the Thermostat Closes the circuit ) and calls for heat.

    At first, every time i turned of the on/off switch on the Thermostat off then back on again the Booster stated it was "Off" and required manual switching on. but i tried the settings button and changed the "Mode" and now it remembers to come back on automatically.

    I plugged in a mobile phone and tablet to charge via the 240v inverter, i turned on 3 LED double strip lights and i single, plus 2 LED spot lights. I powered up my sleep mask and gingerly turned on the heater, and.................Whey Hey....
    it powered up and ran absolutely fine

    Looks like i might have finally sorted it out.


    Thanks everybody for your input, especially to "Traveller" for the Buck Booster suggestion and "Kernowjon" for his Solar Panel sugestion.

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  19. #58
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    I am not risking too much comment until you have been away .... BUT
    I do hope this all works and you have Mask and Heater etc etc.

    BTW out today looked up at the leisure battery display - flicking between 13.9 and 14 - as always the fridge working.

    Jon
    I hate growing old - my mind thinks that I am still young but at times my body lets me down

  20. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    Wired up the Buck Booster today to the Heater.
    Connected it to the - (Neg) and the + Ignition Wire and left the + Positive wire to the heater connected as it was.

    I fitted it After the Thermostat and close to the heater so it only get powered up when the Control (main) heater switch is turned ON and the Thermostat Closes the circuit ) and calls for heat.

    At first, every time i turned of the on/off switch on the Thermostat off then back on again the Booster stated it was "Off" and required manual switching on. but i tried the settings button and changed the "Mode" and now it remembers to come back on automatically.

    I plugged in a mobile phone and tablet to charge via the 240v inverter, i turned on 3 LED double strip lights and i single, plus 2 LED spot lights. I powered up my sleep mask and gingerly turned on the heater, and.................Whey Hey....
    it powered up and ran absolutely fine

    Looks like i might have finally sorted it out.


    Thanks everybody for your input, especially to "Traveller" for the Buck Booster suggestion and "Kernowjon" for his Solar Panel sugestion.
    Only just seen this, as I've been away myself.
    It should be ok at 15v, but right in the centre of the board, just over the display, is a little potentiometer you can adjust with a screwdriver.
    Disconnect the output, and you should be able to tweak the voltage down a bit if you want to.

  21. #60
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    Cheers Traveller

    Now its in and under load it doesn't seem to reach the 15v that i saw when it was just connected to the power supply.

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