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Thread: old style interior linings, anyone ever changed one ?

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    Default old style interior linings, anyone ever changed one ?

    Hi all, I have an old Romahome, same set up as Kernowjon, but a bit less tidy, anyway the interior lining has seen better days, it is shedding hair and fibres like a Wookie in a heatwave! Has anyone every stripped this lining out and replaced it with something less asthma inducing?

    Am I right in thinking it is held in place with screws that locate into blobs of resin on the inner skin?

    Any photos, advice, suggestions gratefully received.

    Cheers, Graham

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    Graham

    Are you talking about the ceiling lining?

    I think IP / Romahome used many different linings. My ceiling is a sort of fabric on board - the board stuck to big blobs of resin.

    When the weather changes 24 hours no rain (Not a problem for you) we are going to undo the rooflights - we have also taken down the pelmets (widening them to create a 4 inch wide shelf to get extra storage) - take down the ceiling - new glue . Make some pros to hold up the ceiling in the centre and both sides. ew glue "NO Nails" or similar to refasten to the resin blobs.

    Maybe you could fabricate new lining panels from very thin 3mm plywood - either go overboard and use Marine Ply or WSP exterior grade - use the old panels for templates.

    Jon

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    Here's a thread that Pamsicle wrote, which may be of some help. Pam recovered the inside of her Romini caravan (same thing, only towable) for the same reason.

    http://www.smallmotorhome.co.uk/foru...-Romini-refurb

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    Thanks guys, had the skylight cover down and yes, fir coat glued to thin ply with an air gap, lots of screws holding it up so very likely lots of resin blobs, I wonder what else I'll find under thee ��

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    Jayjay, thanks for the link to Pamsicle's thread, very very helpful, we are going to try an altogether different covering for our refurb but the basic principles of the fit will be pretty much along the same lines.

    I'll add pictures as we go

    Thanks, Graham.

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    We used the lining sold on ebay for campers to cover the window end and tops and bottoms of our seating area using spray adhesive (so its only the kitchen end with bare walls)

    P1020800.jpg


    We also used this to complexly re-furb a pod on both the ceiling (put up first by two people) and walls .

    Heathrow Camper 4.jpg

    P1000224.jpg

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    Hi Graham
    We seem to be in tandem. I took the ceiling down to reglue - 30+ year old ply needs replacing - so we too are now looking at resin "BLOBS"
    Tomorrow we will go and get a sheet of ply - first question 3mm or 5mm
    We have decided to do the job properly - we wont get away before late June or early July.
    I have ordered some vehicle trim carpet for the ceiling and sides.
    Rooflight seals have shrunk and hardened so they are like biscuit or old dog chews. Obviously we will have to reseal the window rubbers too.

    Jon

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    Luckily the ceiling panels on the pod i refurbished were fine and just needed recovering.

    I would suggest using 3mm panels. Less weight and a bit more flexible.

    Easier to fit as two that struggle to get a full sheet in

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    Thanks for that The ceiling we took down was in 2 halves - divided down the centre - I was intending to do the same. I will use the 3mm - I need some fine teeth saw blades for the jig-saw as 3 mm has a tendency to splinter.
    Jon

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    3mm can be cut using a stanley knife.

    use a new blade and make several passes (usually takes about 3) going a bit deeper each time

    that wiil give a smoother edge with no splintering

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    I am risking 6mm as a sheet of surplus marine ply fell into my hands for a tenner.
    I asked no questions but the bloke works in a boat yard - he said "Oh Ive got some thin ply."
    All cut and we are starting later today.
    Jon

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    Graham

    How is the relining progressing?

    Jon

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    Quote Originally Posted by kernowjon View Post
    Graham

    How is the relining progressing?

    Jon
    Hi John, we managed to salvage the original panels and Rose has recovered them with some thin carpet from the Spanish equivalent of B&Q, used a liberal amount of adhesive over the whole thing and just need to make up some struts and pads to hold it all up, I have no intention of standing in a hot pod with my arms raised for at least 30 mins waiting for it all to set.

    Of course I'm still also wading through the nightmare that are the electrics in our pod, having ripped out all the old cables in the gas bottle hold I no longer have any feeds for the ceiling lights or other auxiliaries, except for a couple of wires where the light fittings used to be, cant figure out where the original cable runs were so I'm probably going to re-instal from scratch.

    The electrics have thrown up another problem, the rear light clusters are original fit, as is the wiring and connectors, everything seems to be shorting across after god knows how many years of use and I don't hold out too much hope at the moment of being able to refurbish them, at least not immediately, so I might end up getting a set of replacement clusters just to get the thing legal again.
    My 'to do' list is rapidly expanding

    On the plus side Rose has finally found some fabric she likes to recover the seats & 'backrests'.

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    Graham,

    I'll start with the vehicle lights. I assume for a moment the feed in is from a 12N trailer socket that is a 7 pin plug feeding into the van. The plug and socket will be under the van at the rear of the pickup where a towbar would be.

    http://www.towingandtrailers.co.uk/shop/132/133/142/

    My solution would be a total rewire. Get 5 metres of 7 core trailer wire and wire in using the wiring diagram the link took you to. If you have read either my posts or Donk's Dad's posts you will see we have both replaced the original light units with LED lights. No more changing light bulbs. If you do go LED you will also need a dummy load across each indicator unit. Your other alternative are ordinary trailer lights.

    I ran all my light wires in at the front end of the drop section along the side and up to the righthand rear lights. Here I did a junction with those wires going to LH lights - I ran this wire across tight to the door step and to the LH lights.

    If you are going to LEDs I found a lovely little gizmo - number plate bolts with a built in LED - no number plate light unit as such.
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TWO-LED-NU...8AAOxy3cJTgcpI
    Light units
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-10-LED-...item440169b434
    Indicator load
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4x-LED-Ind.../162337522305?
    You only need 2 of the 4 loads unless you change the front indicator bulb for an LED.

    I hope this bit helps.
    Jon

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    I have the original plug feeding my pod from the tow bar socket and I changed ALL of the light in the pod for LED's but i haven't used anything on the indicators in the way of resistors and all work fine.

    I ran this wire across tight to the step up into the habitation unit from the kitchen end and the flowrex carpet cover this

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    Thanks guys, a goldmine of information as always, the supply chain is a bit limited out here so unless I can find LED's at a sensible price I'll most likely retrofit some trailer light units and standard bulbs, interior lights will be going over to LED's as these kinds of units are comparatively inexpensive from the Spanish diy shops.

    Thanks again for info'

    Graham

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    I have the original plug feeding my pod from the tow bar socket and I changed ALL of the light in the pod for LED's but i haven't used anything on the indicators in the way of resistors and all work fine.
    I think the difference is you still have working pick-up light units - whereas on my truck the PU rear lights are long gone.

    Jon

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    Oh yes Jon, those super high quality rear light clusters on the truck, know what you mean ��

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    I was going to change all of the indicator bulbs on the pick-up to led but the front bulbs have offset pins (like a lot of Suzuki)

    But the back lights are normal pin.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Donk's Dad View Post
    I was going to change all of the indicator bulbs on the pick-up to led but the front bulbs have offset pins (like a lot of Suzuki)

    But the back lights are normal pin.
    If you change the indicator bulbs on the truck side for LEDs you will change the "LOAD" - resistance which dictates current consumption as the voltage has stayed constant 12v nominal. The flasher unit (indicator relay) depends on the current to dictate the flash rate. - A bulb blows that side does not flash - add a trailer board with bulbs (unless there is a trailer flash unit wired in) the flash rate increases.

    The solution to this is to wire in the loads across each indicator unit that has an LED instead of a conventional bulb. So there is no reduction in the current consumption whether you have bulbs or LEDs.

    With modern vehicles with computers it all gets more complicated as without Loads the vehicle will have a hissy fit believing you are driving without indicators I prefer our old type trucks
    Jon

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