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Thread: C15 Immobiliser

  1. #1
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    Default C15 Immobiliser

    Hi Ant
    I'm having a problem with the old immobiliser, it's cut out, all ignition lights and the engine, I by-passed it by feeding a live wire to the pump and stuck a temporary wire on the starter to stick to 12v to start, I can't keep doing that or I'll have my collar felt by the police one day lol.

    What I really need is the wiring diagram for a GT 692T immobiliser. I still have the installation certificate with the companies name on it in Dorset but on calling several times the phone rings and no one answers. I was wondering as it's a Thatcham approved system would Thatcham hold the wiring diagrams for them?
    Its looking like I'll have to spend a few hours under the dash tracing the wiring and reconnecting back into the loom but with a wiring diagram this would cut down my time spent upside down. I know it's a long shot but any advice would be most welcome.
    "Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time"

  2. #2
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    Default

    UP-Date
    I just received a reply back from Thatcham and was a little shocked by their reply:-

    Hi Jeff

    Unfortunately the product you have reference is not a Thatcham recognised product and we do not hold any information on this system.
    I would suggest contacting the Alarm manufacturer if they still exist.

    Kind regards

    Ian Curtis
    "Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time"

  3. #3
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    Default

    latest reply from Thatcham

    Hi Jeff

    I have reference the evaluation number and it relates to the GT immobiliser only which was delisted back in 1998. GT Alarms have had systems certified with us over the years, but currently no systems are Thatcham compliant.

    Unfortunately we do not hold any data on these older systems.

    Kind regards
    "Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time"

  4. #4
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    Default

    Hi Jeff.
    There are only 2 wires you need to worry about. The first is the feed to the pump solenoid, this wire will have been cut and the alarm wires will be connected to each cut side, identify these cut the two alarm wires and join them together. The second is the starter solenoid feed, again the original will be cut and rerouted via the alarm. these are normally cut close to the ignition switch, I would reinstate the original wires together and discard the alarm wires. That accounts for 4 wires on the alarm loom, lights, horn and indicators are another 3 wires, door switches and an alarm feed and earth will make up the rest, all but the first 4 controlling the ignition and fuel can be left alone. The wiring of most alarms is pretty similar the differences are found in the alarm box but once the starter and fuel are sorted you can cut the feed wire to the alarm and it will just die.
    Ant

  5. #5
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    Default

    Many thanks Ant.
    Went over there today and disconnected the immobiliser and reconnected the original wires and re-soldered them, tried the ignition and nothing, multimeter out and did a continuity test between the pump and fuse box and still no voltage at the pump, disconnected battery and started doing a continuity test between the fuse and the pump, "dead" I traced the cable from the pump toward the fuse box and what do I see? the multi way connecter on top of the clutch housing just hanging there, removed air filter, reconnected plug and everything worked. cable tied them together so it doesn't come apart again and at least I know in the future I won't have any problems with the immobiliser.
    "Take nothing but pictures. Leave nothing but footprints. Kill nothing but time"

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